Backpacking Trips

Sample Equipment List

Packing - day hikes or overnight, the essentials Clothing - think in layers; remember cotton kills

    Raincoat - waterproof; NO umbrellas, ponchos, or Gore-Tex
    Rainpants - waterproof; zippered vents, suspenders are nice
    Hiking shoes - heavy duty; break them in BEFORE the trip!
    Garbage bags - compactor; put sleeping bag, clothes inside
    Toilet paper - carefully burn or bury; or use sphagnum moss
    Topo maps - include maps of neighboring areas just in case
    Compass - with signal mirror; always bring, even with GPS
    Sneakers - or sandals or booties; cross streams, in camp
    Headnet - black is best; use instead of mosquito repellent


    Shirts - one wool; nylon, silk (bugs); max one cotton (sun)
    Shorts - one pair, lightweight; nylon or cotton okay (sun)
    Jackets - several; polar fleece, wool, or acrylic; NO cotton!
    Trousers - one pair; tropical wool or polyester; NO cotton!
    Underwear - several pair; polypro, nylon, silk, some cotton
    Thermals - top and bottom; polypro, silk, fleece; NO cotton!
    Gloves - or mittens; fingerless okay; wool or polypro best
    Socks - several pair; wool, synthetic, blended; NO cotton!
    Hat - one wool; maybe another with visor (shelter from sun)

Camping - overnights; prepare for cold & wet Cooking - stove & fuel may be split up & shared

    Tent - three season, separate rainfly; self-standing is better
    Backpack - internal or external frame; of sufficient capacity
    Ground cloth - heavy duty space blanket; put INside the tent
    Sleeping pad - closed cell foam, RidgeRest, or ThermaRest
    Sleeping bag - synthetic, NOT down!; good to 20 F (or -5 C)
    Blanket - polyester; add to bag if cold, use instead if warm


    Fuel - appropriate for stove; bring only what you really need
    Stove - light, dependable; MSR WhisperLite recommended
    Lighter - NOT child-proof (won't work if you're hypothermic)
    Spoon - or two, and fork; durable (polycarbonate or metal)
    Cup - with snap-on lid for faster cooking of pasta or ramen
    Pot - or two, fairly light weight, WITH its lid (saves on fuel)

First-Aid - keep it simple, very basic, lightweight Personal - important items; varies by individual

    Tablets - a few each of analgesic (aspirin) and antihistamine
    Bandages - moleskin; band-aids; gauze pad; adhesive wrap
    Medications - if you're on them, don't leave them at home!
    Toothbrush / toothpaste - bag to reduce attraction of bears
    Creams / lotions - antibiotic first-aid; hand lotion; sunscreen
    Soap / shampoo - ONLY if biodegradable; moist towelettes
    Dental floss - serves as thread for repairs, stitching sutures
    Needle - to sew buttons, repair gear, or even make stitches


    Knife - Swiss army type okay, don't get too carried away
    Money - for before or after trip; don't leave it in the vehicle
    Identification - pack drivers license or other identification
    Horn / whistle - for people (bears EAT whistling marmots)
    Signal flares - optional; as signal, fire starter, bear repellent
    Bear spray - safer than a pistol (and certainly much lighter)
    Shock cord - a few yards (meters); for repairs, to tie down
    Duct tape - for repairs; no Alaskan would ever be without it!

Food - no smelly, oily food; bears smell well Optional - depends on person & trip purpose

    Water bottle - quart (liter) size, or bring a couple if smaller
    Water filter - giardia is quite present in wilderness Alaska
    Breakfasts - "bloatmeal", yoghurt, granola, powdered milk
    Lunches - jerky, bagels, cheese, peanut butter, fruit, vegies
    Dinners - be creative; spice it up, but avoid oils and odors
    Snacks - eat while hiking; candy bars, dried fruit, nut mixes
    Treats - after dinner; hot chocolate, tea, dessert, cookies


    Camera - take photos along the way to remember the trip
    Film - or extra memory card / stick if using digital camera
    Book - light-weight (or split up); for those long days of rain
    Notepad - to keep notes, sketch; something to do if it rains
    Rock hammer - to pound in tent stakes, extract specimens
    Chisels - to extract fossil specimens, rocks and minerals
    Sacks - to collect specimens; Tyvek envelopes work well

Notes and Explanations

Waterproof Raingear and Shelter

In Alaska, weather can change quite rapidly, such as a storm bringing heavy rain turning into clear skies and cold temperatures.  Suppose someone is out in the rain and gets wet due to poor quality raingear.  Or perhaps the rain was at night and they got wet from a rainfly that was badly damaged or not properly functioning.  When the storm clears and the temperature drops, that person may be in danger of hypothermia, a lower than normal body core temperature.  It is very important to keep our clothes and sleeping bag dry, so that this situation does not occur.  This means having waterproof raingear and a waterproof tent or rainfly.  What hikers need is raingear that really works--not just around town in the sun, but in heavy rain (or snow or sleet) and high winds.  Gore-Tex and Tyvek raingear are NOT waterproof and thus NOT adequate for Alaska.  Ponchos and umbrellas are useless due to the high winds we can have here.  Cheap gear from low price stores like WalMart is usually worthless as well.  I've seen WalMart dome tents collect four inches of water overnight, and I've seen them blow away from strong gusts of wind.


Sleeping Bag and Ground Cloth

Down filled sleeping bags are not recommended for summer in Alaska.  Down absorbs moisture from the air, or from our breath as we sleep.  The moisture decreases down's ability to insulate.  Purchase a synthetic bag, preferably one filled with some sort of hollow insulation.  Place a thick plastic (trash compactor) bag inside the sleeping bag stuff sack, then stuff the sleeping bag inside the plastic bag.  This will keep the sleeping bag dry when it rains, or if the wrapped bag is dropped in a creek.  The outer stuff sack protects the plastic trash compactor bag.  A thick emergency blanket (aluminumized on one side and colored red on the other) makes a better ground cloth than the official tent footprint.  Instead of placing it UNDER the tent (where it causes water running down the walls to collect into a pool), place it INSIDE and curl it up along the walls (so any water drops will be kept underneath).  It also protects the floor (since most punctures originate from the inside anyway).  The aluminumized emergency blanket reflects body heat, adding warmth; or the red side can be used to signal for help if an emergency situation arises.

©2001 Curvin Metzler